Climbing book orco valley italy

The orco valley beautifully set in the piemont region of italy. Truly picturesque, the valley was given its name because of the river that flows through it, the orco river rock climbing in the valle dell orco is an amazing activity. A bit on the older side, but great book for known climbing routes in certain regions of spain, greece, germany, italy, france, switzerland, great britain, belgium, and norway. Southern italy also has some great sport climbing particularly in sicily and around napoli, as shown on our southern italy map. Aug 17, 2016 orco valley piedmont climbing in orco valley it is a pristine valley which lies between the massif of levante and the gran paradiso national park, a place not to be missed if you like climbing on granite. This characteristic which it shares with the adjacent val grande di lanzo contributed to transform the orco valley into one of italy s iconic climbing sites on granite, no less than the mello. The style of climbing involves plenty of splitter cracks, delicate slabs and some excellent face climbs across a wide range of grades, which can accessed. The col leynir leynir pass, 3,084 m, ne of the summit divides the mountain from the mont tout blanc, while the orco valsavarenche ridge continues towards sw with col rosset 3,023 m and punta rosset 3,100 m. Italy has a wealth of great rock climbing and sport climbing areas, particularly in the mountains and alps of northern italy, as shown on our map. Limestone crags, beautiful gneiss and granite rock, long multipitch traditional and sport climbs and bouldering. Ever since coming back from the us, ive been suffering from crack withdrawal symptoms.

A wonderful crossing allows you to get to gran piano starting from just under the colle del nivolet, with a continuous view down into the orco valley. In orco, peewee was there to try greenspit and i wanted to do a linkup project and an unclimbed finger crack that ive tried for a couple of years now. Compare and book a certified guide for your trip on. Many additional skills about progressing, belaying, escaping technics. I was in the midst of a rush of new routing in the orco valley and the idea that there could be somewhere bigger, better and with more potential seemed so unlikely in a country with. Bernd zangerl makes the first ascent of il colonel sds in val di orco, italy. I follow the guidebook indications on the trail up, but we loose christine off into the woods on the right.

Crack climbing in orco valley, italy guillaume dargaud. There is also a guide to local crack climbing cracks being the orco. This video retraces the first ascents of two new rock climbs on torre di aimonin in valle dell orco, italy. Some italian climbers have nicknamed the area little yosemite, complete with the caporal and sergent, walls that multipitch.

Valle dellorco from trad to sport climbing by versante. Sergent is the most famous and popular wall in valle dellorco, the orco valley. Since a few years, except for hard and enterprising high mountain alpinism, really less and less played, in many european countries latin countries mainly, but also switzerland and germany a climbing practice more and more supported. In my first chamonix dispatch, i talked about the arcteryx alpine academy and some of the local moderate routes. Finale ligure, on the italian riviera, one of the most famous rock climbing destinations in the world. Here there are many single pitch and multipitch rock routes around the towns of courmayeur, travagnasco, morex, aosta, nus, saintvincent, point saint martin, and verres. Apr 25, 20 when i was first told about a new crack climbing area in italy, i couldnt believe it. If you like granite cracks and slabs this is the place to head for. Northern italy is one of the best places in the world for mountain climbing. Cracks of all shapes and sizes wind their up these solid gneiss slabs, creating a paradise for trad climbing.

Enjoy coastal cliffs on the island of sardinia as well as the amalfi coast. Rock climbing excursions and tours in italy are running every day of the week, and are always private for your group. Oviglia ed versante sud 2010 buy this guidebook on amazon some pictures about the covered rock climbing areas. It is also possible to set your own specific group date to find other participants. In italy, there are all types of climbing to be found. Also and surprisingly quite a lot of reasonably easy aid climbing, much of it single pitch.

I was in the midst of a rush of new routing in the orco valley and the idea that there could be somewhere bigger, better and with more potential seemed so unlikely in a country with with thousands and thousands of climbers. As the weather turned on monday, we looked for other climbing options. Rock climbing in the orco valley the orco valley valle dell orco is located in the gran paradiso national park, which is situated to the north of turin and west of milan. The upper needles of chamonix france, only in summer. The rock climbing is situated in a succession of valleys in the hills behind finale ligure, and covers an area of 10 square kilometers. Sure, you can find some good cracks up in chamonix, 2 months a year when its warm enough, provided you can avoid the bad weather, fight the crowds and survive the glacier approach.

Since many years i am regulary visiting the italian val di orco in the region of piemont. Valle dellorco from trad to sport climbing published on aug 27, 2010 this guide book describes the walls of valle dellorco, from its crags to the legendary walls of sergent and caporal. Northern italy valley orco hiking climbing supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. All bathed in the warmth of the italian sun and surrounded by vistas of the beautiful italian landscapes and seascapes. Valle dellorco the best rock climbing destinations and. Jan 18, 2018 the dolomites are one of the most beautiful places to hike in the world. Italy s splendid orco valley, located to the west of turin, has traditionally been the home to some of the countrys premier trad climbing but ben. Rock climbing routes in valle dellorco, northwestern italy. Rock climbing trips orco valley helps you book your next rock climbing trip in orco valley.

Instant pdf generic precreated pdf for italy pdfs not available for regions. This valley is famous for its granite crack climbing, which is said to be the best in the western european alps, and is known locally as little yosemite. The highest mountains are really something that are not easily climb especially when season is not that favorable. Join me on this 4day rock climbing course in the beautiful orco valley and take your technical skills one step up. This last week brought good weather, bad weather, new friends, old friends and some worldclass climbing in italy and france. Rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in italy. These walls played a fairly important role in the history of rock climbing in italy in the 1970s. Jul 01, 20 it is a beautiful drive down through western switzerland passing bern, lausanne and martigny then up over a beautiful pass into france and down into chamonix, with a quick visit to the best climbing shop in the world drool then under mont blanc into italy down valle aosta before turning up into valle dell orco. Orco valley is located about a 2 hour drive from milan. The guide is now fully translated into english and covers the fantastic climbing, both multipitch trad and sport, to be had in the orco valley in the gran paradiso national park in north west italy. Bouldering in valle dellorco and the orcoblocco climbing. We may organize group dates for some rock climbing excursions or tours in italy that single participants can join. Valle dellorco from trad to sport climbing by versante sud srl issuu.

One year of climbing and helping nonprofits around the world. Rock climbing in valle dell orco, valle dell orco mountain project. Valle dellorco rock climbing guidebook climb europe. Aug 27, 2010 this guide book describes the walls of valle dellorco, from its crags to the legendary walls of sergent and caporal, ending with colle del nivolet. This course is designed for rock climbers who already have some sport climbing experience on single or multipitched routes equipped with bolts but would like to become more autonomous on longer routes where one needs to use fast protections such as nuts and friends. Multipitch ice climbing can mean anything from easy 24 pitch routes to challenging 610 pitch routes. Bouldering in valle dellorco and the orcoblocco climbing meeting. Mountain guides italy is based in two strategic areas. This is the definitive guidebook that covers all the trad and sport climbing in the orco valley in the gran paradiso national park in north west italy. In addition to a variety of climbing styles, are the various types of stone. Narrow roads and pastoral landscape lead to granite walls fractured by cracks of all sizes and difficulties. Rock climbing at finale ligure camping le terrazze.

A new guidebook to the valle dell orco in northwest italy has prompted something of a revival in trad climbing amongst normally conservative italian climbers. A new guidebook to the valle dellorco in northwest italy has prompted something of a revival in trad climbing amongst normally conservative italian climbers. The many routes opened over the past few years and the increase in visits to the valley, especially by foreigners, convinced the author to write a book which is not a simple guide with grades and. Map of the rock climbing areas in northern italy the aosta valley is situated in the north west corner of the italian alps at the entrance from the mont blanc tunnel. I fell in love with this beautiful wild alpine valley and the local people living there.

Rock climbing trips italian alps helps you book your next rock climbing trip in italian alps. Orco valley piedmont italy oraco valley piedmond italy it is a pristine valley which lies between the massif of levante and the gran paradiso national park, a place not to be missed if you like climbing. This valley is famous for its granite crack climbing, which is said to be the best in the western european alps. Unfortunately it really should be called rock climbing guide to western europe, as there are. Also it does contain topos for main crags and the end of the day if you cant use a guidebook without a topo what are you actually doing in the dolomites. Climbing in arco, northern italy klimbingkorns the. This is one of italy s best traditional rock climbing areas. We ran from our partners, from weekend commitments, or usedup books in view of a forthcoming exam. Valle dell orco from trad to sport climbing published on aug 27, 2010 this guide book describes the walls of valle dell orco, from its crags to the legendary walls of sergent and caporal.

When i was first told about a new crack climbing area in italy, i couldnt believe it. The orco valley valle dell orco is located in the gran paradiso national park, which is situated to the north of turin and west of milan. The aosta valley offers everything from the best secure climbing routes for children to trad climbing in the orco valley. Orco valley trad meet, a week of great climb ceresole reale, valle dell orco, piemonte 2012, 1522 september. As i mentioned in my previous article concerning the latest news from the orco valley, italy s most famous trad climbing valley even though it must be said that ossola is catching up rapidly. An inspiring climbing guide to the valle d orco in the grand paradiso area of northern italy. Apparently theres no such thing as crack climbing in old europe. The valley takes its name from the orco river, which flows through the valley. The best big wall rock climbing in italy is found at the dolomites, with multi.

Compare and book a certified guide for your rock climbing trip with. Rock climbing area valle dellorco info, betas, location. The valle dell orco guidebook is the first of 2 volumes vol 2 out early spring 2011 that replace the popular old rock paradise guide. Rock climbing tours and excursions in italy verticalife. Italys splendid orco valley, located to the west of turin, has traditionally been the home to some of the countrys premier trad climbing but ben. The valley offers all visitors the opportunity of walking, hiking and climbing routes in any season of the year. The second news report from italy s orco valley by maurizio oviglia. She climbs back down so we can go through the official. Following his injury documented in first ascent, his faith in christianity reignited. Getting there orco valley is located about a 2 hour drive from milan. An escape, the one we carried out in the orco valley, once again. There are a number of different rock faces in the valley that rests at the foot of the majestic gran paradiso mountain 4,061m. Although the first two weeks of our trip to italy were somewhat marred by rain on the odd day, it was negotiable. The valley connects pont canavese to the nivolet pass.

I eventually reexamined my very first guidebook of the orco valley. Rock climbing in italy rock climbing holidays rock and sun. Ponte di legno in the central italian alps, the perfect location for summer climbing in the adamellopresanella and brenta dolomites ranges. All locations international europe italy valle dell orco. The orco valley valle dell orco is famous for its multipitch granite crack climbing, which is said to be the best in the western european alps. This guidebook describes the walls of valle dellorco, from its crags to the. Rock climbing trips italy chalk up those hands, check those carabiners and head out onto the sunbaked rocks of italy. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with reallife experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This guide book describes the walls of valle dellorco, from its crags to the legendary walls of sergent and caporal, ending with colle del nivolet. Bernd zangerl makes the first ascent of il colonel sds in. Complete with plentiful and varied rock climbing opportunities for participants of all levels, italy has plenty to offer. Valle dellorco from trad to sport climbing in orco valley. The route joins another nearby line freed by mingolla a year ago. As i mentioned in my previous article concerning the latest news from the orco valley, italy s most famous trad climbing valley even though it must be said that ossola is catching up.

Having used the dolomites west and east guidebooks, i would probably disagree with the suggestion of just getting the classics guidebook. This is one of italys best traditional rock climbing areas. An abundance of everything from sport climbing to long, alpine routes. Italian mountain guide umberto bado introduces two absolute classic rock climbs in valle dellorco. Hiking, biking, and climbing a via ferrata are all part of the trip in the italian mountains.

Seimandi and freed by rolando larcher and conosci te. The birth place of competition climbing and home to some fantastic long mountain routes. Mountain guides italy is specialised in organising custom made ice climbing courses and guided trips for individuals or small groups. Rock climbing, sport climbing in the orco valley in the italian alps. Valle dellorco from trad to sport climbing by versante sud. Apr 25, 20 although the first two weeks of our trip to italy were somewhat marred by rain on the odd day, it was negotiable. Cross the bridge and follow along the mule track on the left side hydrographic of valeille reaching the fork 1910m.

Our arrival in orco valley for the second week however, marked a change in luck. It deals exclusively with the valley crags caporal, sergent, torre di aimonin etc. Discover the diversity of rock climbing to be found at arco and the sarca valley. Northern italy valley orco hiking climbing supertopo. Cordee climbing climbing guides italy books and maps. The orco valley valle dell orco is located in the gran paradiso national park.

The rock climbing at finale ligure in italy offers fantastic, diverse sports climbing of great quality and character, with over 2700 routes to choose from on white limestone rock. Nobel prize winning physicist and pioneering climber mike kosterlitz has been announced as the 2017 recipient of the prestigious arco rock legends climbing ambassador award. The cliffs are located along either side of the road at various locations. Chamonix dispatches, june 22 acclimatization gripped magazine. The good quality of the rocks, the often short climbs and the mild climate of the aosta valley make climbing possible all year round. I like the unique granite features and over the years i opened many moderate and. Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in valle dellorco, italy the short report of the first orcoblocco, the bouldering meeting that took place at ceresole reale, in valle dell orco ne italy from 12 to 14 september 2014. Federica mingolla climbs old projects in valle dellorco. Rock paradise now available only in italian reignited interest around. Colle sia from ceresole reale a beautiful muletrack winds up through forests of larches and firs to colle sia, which connects the top of the orco valley with the solitary vallone del roc ravine. Guided climbing in piedmont, valle dellorco and aosta valley. Sep 27, 2016 due giorni di arrampicata trad sui paretoni di granito della valle dell orco, friend a manetta e salita di nautilus.

Valle dell orco interesting rock climbing area for routes from 6a to 6c, from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a french grades. The cea is open the whole year upon reservation for info tel. Valle dell orco is a valley in the piedmont region of northern italy located in the graian alps, in the territory of the metropolitan city of turin. Italy s splendid orco valley, located to the west of turin, has traditionally been the home to some of the countrys premier trad climbing but beneath its splendid granite rock faces sits some of countrys greatest bouldering potential. Italys splendid orco valley, located to the west of turin, has traditionally been the home to some of the countrys premier trad climbing but beneath its splendid granite rock faces sits some of countrys greatest bouldering potential. Guided ice climbing in the dolomites mountain guides italy.

Take a pick from our selection of rock climbing trips in orco valley. Enrico, matteo, andrea, massimo, cristina, fabrizio e giacomo filmed. Federica mingolla climbs old projects in valle dellorco, italy. Avalanche can also be a block for mountain climbing but we manage to climb those mountains in italy. The valle dell orco is a beautiful valley in the piedmont area of italy. Rock climbing europe regional rock climbing series. Farther north a superb area with nice summer temperatures and killer friction is bohuslan on the west coast of sweden. The climbing proves easier than expected, with decent holds for the feet and some good hidden flakes inside the crack after a short distance. Mountain climbing in italy explore the excellent and varied.